Saturday, February 28, 2009

Travelpalooza Part IX

Last day of the trip! Blase, Maeghan and I left the hotel early to go to the harbor and take better pictures of Brad Pitt's Horse. Aside from getting from decidedly wacky looks from the locals, I think one could call the excursion a success.

And here I present Maeghan and Blase, performing a ninja-meets-pterodactyl fusion. Yeah, I don't know, either.


And myself.


So we found these massive chains laying out by the harbor, and Blase got to clowning around, and...


And then we hopped on a ferry...


...and went to Gallipolli.


In 1915, the British and French launched the Dardanelles Campaign in hopes of capturing Istanbul (then Constantinople), gaining access to Russia, and generally probe the "soft underbelly" of Europe. They started the attack at Gallipoli, planning to take the Dardanelles before launching an attack on Istanbul. It...didn't work. After approximately eight months of fighting, 21,000 British, 10,000 French, 8,700 Australians, 2,700 New Zealanders and 1,370 Indians were dead. So were 86,700 Turks. The Allies never took Gallipoli. The date of withdrawal of the Allied troops - ANZAC Day - remains an important day in the national consciousness of Turks, Australians, and New Zealanders - all nations that entered WWI as part of an empire and ended the war as independent nations. Today, the beaches and banks around Gallipoli's North Cove are an incorporated park and monument.

This is monument features part of a speech by Ataturk:


"Those heroes that shed their blood
And lost their lives...
You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country.
Therefore rest in peace.
There is no difference between the Johnnies
And the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side
Here in this country of ours...
You, the mothers...
Who sent their sons from far-away countries
Wipe away your tears,
Your sons are now lying in our bosom
And are in peace,
After having lost their lives on this land they have
Become our sons as well."
- Ataturk, 1934


This is the grave of Private H.J. Buron, of the 23rd BN. Australian Infantry. Date of death is November 30, 1915 (age 18) and the inscription reads: "Only a boy but died as a man for liberty and freedom / His mum & dad".


The statue in this picture is of Ataturk, founder of the Turkish republic. He made his name at Gallipoli.


The trenches have been more or less preserved.




We found the New Zealand section. Note the Maori regiment.


This is the youngest New Zealander we could find: Private M. A. Persson out of the Wellington regiment. Date of death August 8, 1915. He was 17. Most of the graves were for 18-24 year-olds, although a number were much older.


The Brits imported a few thousand Gurkhas out of Indian, and they alos have their own division in the cemetary. This is the grave of Punahang Limbu, date of death August 10, 1915. No age is given.


I believe I've mentioned this before, but if anyone has even a passing interest in Gallipoli, the founding of Turkey, or simply a truly excellent story with accompanying excellent storytelling, give Louis de Bernières Birds Without Wings a read.

Back in transit to Istanbul. This is how you sleep on a bus when you're sick of half-falling off the seats when the bus goes around corners.


We left those who lived on the European side at Taksim Square before leaving for the Asian dropoff point.


And that's the end.

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